The much awaited re-launch of the magazine, which was once in the top 3 most popular glossies, is scheduled for this coming fall.
L’Officiel Russia had a glorious but challenging past. After a series of lawsuits following the epic dismissal of its famed EIC Evelina Khromtchenko (the vacant place was filled with the Russian publisher’s wife) the magazine has ceased publication in 2011.
Now Les Editions Jalou is taking charge. The lucrative Russian market prompted the French media group to invest almost $30 million in opening a branch in Russia that will be publishing all their titles: L’Officiel, L’Officiel Hommes, L’Officiel Art, Jalouse, etc.
In his comment regarding the re-launch of L’Officiel Russia Vladimir Pomukchinsky, the president of Jalou Russia, has mentioned “a charismatic editor-in-chief, well known to foreign fashion brands”. Could Ms Khromtchenko be back as well?]]>
Traditional Russian embroidery intertwines itself closely with the history of Russia, or more precisely, the land that it now occupies. Seen as an ubiquitous folk tradition, it is, in fact, a diverse and multi-faceted skill that spread and evolved through centuries and over geographical borders, equally distinguishing and uniting people.
Several well-known styles of embroidery – for example, Krestetsky stitching or Christian gold embroidery – create but a fraction of various techniques, which were once used in households and for the most part forgotten after the 19th century. Of what has been preserved, it is generally acceptable to distinguish two groups of embroidery, originating in Northern and Central Russia, respectively.
The embroidery of Northern (left) Russia and Southern Russia. Pictures from the 1925 Paris exhibition catalogue by Henri Ernst
The embroidery of Northern Russia is marked by a vast use of geometrical patterns and a restricted colour scheme, with most of designs executed entirely in red. Reliance on red in needlework, particularly in backstitch and Holbein stich, is closely bound to the wide-spread acceptance of the colour as a symbol of beauty, and has long since surpassed the field of traditional embroidery. One of the most cherished embroidered images in Russia, “the Sun Chariot”, is traditionally rendered in red. Another aspect of Northern Russian embroidery is a predominant use of horses and riders in patterns, which serve as proof of the land’s cultural and artistic links with Scandinavia, as far back as in pre-Christian and Viking times. Those ornamental motifs show not only the skills of mainly peasant population of the land, but also their social and political dealings at the time.
The Sun Chariot
Not unlike its Northern counterpart, the embroidery of Central Russia reflects daily life and elements of nature that all once possessed symbolic meanings. Geometrized or fluid forms of plants, birds and animals, including that of a leopard with a raised paw, habitually appear in embroideries of various kind, for example, set stitch, counted satin stitch and herringbone stitch. What sets these embroideries apart is an abundance of colours and an unusual diversity of patterns used by lower and upper classes alike. Whether in costume or in daywear, embroideries display a complete natural colour palette and indicate surroundings and lifestyles of a different kind.
‘Welcome Spring’ pattern
The importance of traditional Russian embroidery should not be underestimated in either Northern or Central Russia, for it undoubtedly played a substantial role in people’s everyday lives. Much was domestically produced for home use and special occasions, with lower classes copying embroidery patterns worn by well-off families or developing their own. Linen clothes with embroidered hems and embellished towels were as much a part of daily life as a rite, and served to show skills of women in families as well as their social standing. Skillful embroideries were included in dowry and frequently went on to become a family treasure passed on from generation to generation, and some of these works survive even today.
Evgenia Dorofeeva is a photographer, fashion writer and an avid traveller based in London. Her love of fashion comes from childhood spent in a grandmother’s atelier, while writing is a hobby that is bound to become a full-time occupation. Evgenia’s dream is to create a worthy home collection of evening dresses – story-tellers, performers and fairy godmothers in their own right. ]]>
Dasha Zhukova covers (and guest edits) Vogue Russia June 2013
Patrick Demarchelier (Photographer)
Fabien Baron (Art Director)
Dasha Zhukova (Editor)
Ludivine Poiblanc (Fashion Editor/Stylist)
Karolina Kurkova is captured by Hans Feurer as a modern day mermaid for the June 2013 issue of Vogue Ukraine. In the cover shot she is wearing a dress from Thom Browne’s Spring 2013 collection.
Elle Russia June 2013 – Anne Vyalitsyna by Wasp Tollgardt
Sarah Jessica Parker graces the cover of Harper’s Bazaar Russia
The ever-gorgeous actress poses in a strapless Oscar de la Renta striped gown.]]>
Russian street style is a mix of uptown and downtown – the catch: the ladies on the street have mastered alternating between the two in a flash. Whether the aesthetic is prim and proper, or edgy and modern, it is being captured by the likes of famous fashion photographers such as Tommy Ton, and Scott Schuman, putting the aesthetic of Russian women on the map of high fashion.
On the one hand, Russian street style seeks to encapsulate contemporary at its finest. Miroslava Duma has mastered the minimalist trend, and oftentimes incorporates mod colorblocking into her outfit.
The alternative archetype is the fabulous Park Avenue Princess. Dresses and skirts are full and feminine, dotted with pastoral florals. Heels are also ladylike; single-soled pumps with pointed toes are a common choice.
Left – blogger Eugenia Applebum, right – fashion designer Anastasia Romantsova
Russian street style is chic, sophisticated, at times eccentric, and always on the cutting edge of fashion. There is a dichotomy between modern and vintage. Either way, the looks are right on trend. When peplums are in vogue, you’ll see Elena Perminova making a statement in a large way. If it’s A-line or full-skirted silhouettes that are being most talked about, Ulyana Sergeenko will upstage the competitors in the most voluminous skirt you’ve ever seen.
Ksenia Sobchak wearing Vika Gazinskaya top
There are bright colors. There are oversized accessories. There are fabulous shoes and drool-worthy bags. When it comes to street style, Russian girls know how to play into the spectacle, and how to do so with integrity as each of them expresses a key element of her personality.
Pictures: tatler.ru, lookatme.ruMollie Rifkin finds energy in fashion and art, and understood her calling at a young age. The fix she got from reading her mother’s copies of Vogue while growing up led her to fashion writing. Mollie is passionate about scouting trends before they hit the streets and putting them into words. She sees fashion as wearable art and reports on style and culture, all the while exploring how the two are interrelated. Mollie is based in New York City. ]]>
White would make a powerful statement this Fall, and the verdict: wear it head to toe. There’s something about winter white in a classic cut like a trouser or pencil skirt, so alluring and chic.
RUBAN, Valentin Yudashkin, A’La Russe
Artemklimchuk, Bevza, Omelya Atelier
Scarlet fever is in the air. Bold shades of red appear in monochromatic looks, or with pops of black or white. Red is always great for colorblocking.
Poustovit, Arsenicum, Elenareva
Jealousy, Kamenskayakononova, Bohemique
Emerald: what a gorgeous jewel tone. Rich silks carry this luscious color well. Emerald plays fabulously with deep shades of blue such as navy and teal, as seen at Litkovskaya and Nadya Dzyak.
Poustovit, Litkovskaya, Nadya Dzyak
Geometric shapes take over prints as the pattern of choice, particularly in outerwear. Classics like houndstooth become digitized into large, black and white parallelograms at Vika Gazinskaya. The geometric prints this Fall are huge: think blown-up plaids and bold thick chevron stripes.
Przhonskaya, Vika Gazinskaya, Tegin
Plaid-on-plaid is no longer a crime. It is okay to be matchy-matchy in this print. Plaid tops and plaid pants are most popular in this arena.
Daria Bardeeva, Kalmanovich, A’La Russe
Bring on the sheen! Metallic outfits are the ultimate luxe looks. They show that you are polished, and even a little ahead of your time. These heavy metals make for great party attire.
Anna October, Valentin Yudashkin, Paskal
Vilshenko, LUBLU Kira Plastinina, Domanoff
Quilting is sporty, if not also a minor nod to Chanel, the epitome of women’s sportswear. Quilting for fall has taken an asymmetrical turn for the contemporary. Angular lines and color-blocks are an excellent complement to this textured fabric.
Podolyan, Chapurin, Yulia Nikolaeva
Feminine whimsy comes alive in florals. For maximum effect this fall, choose black-ground floral patterns: the dark background is dramatic and makes the flowers really pop. LUBLU Kira Plastinina brings newness to the floral trend by breaking up the print with thick black stripes.
Elenareva, Alexander Arutyunov, LUBLU Kira Plastinina
Victoria Gres, A’La Russe, Elena Burba
Keep it covered where it matters most: this seems to be the mantra when it comes to transparent looks. Sheer fabrics are used in new ways, exposing legs and midriffs. Mini dresses with sheer maxi overlays that graze the ground are most popular, as well as see-through utility shirts with opaque pockets on the chest.
Bobkova, Tanya Kotegova, RUBAN
Alexander Arutyunov, Elena Burba, Domanoff
How would you incorporate the Fall trends into your wardrobe?Mollie Rifkin finds energy in fashion and art, and understood her calling at a young age. The fix she got from reading her mother’s copies of Vogue while growing up led her to fashion writing. Mollie is passionate about scouting trends before they hit the streets and putting them into words. She sees fashion as wearable art and reports on style and culture, all the while exploring how the two are interrelated. Mollie is based in New York City. ]]>
St. Petersburg might be first and foremost known for its cultural heritage and a palpable feeling of mystery, associated by many with romanticised literature of the Imperial Russia. The city of now, however, draws visitors in with an atmosphere that is both historical and irrevocably modern, touching upon everything from cultural outings to work life and shopping. The latter is an altogether different experience from what one might expect, as independent brands and stores successfully channel the energy of the city in offering an exciting shopping trip and a cultural excursion at the same time.
BABOCHKA + NEVSKY 152 CONCEPT STORE
Established in 1988, Babochka is well on its way to celebrate its 25th anniversary as a successful and ground-breaking fashion store in St. Petersburg and in Russia. It all started from a single shop, aiming to bring international brands to increasingly interested Russian customers. With six multibrand stores and three monobrand boutiques under its belt now, it suffices to say that Babochka has far surpassed its goal. More than a hundred brands from the USA, the UK, Italy and France are stocked in Babochka Gallery, Babochka, Babochka Grand Hotel Europe and Babochka Outlet, which offer the ultimate luxury experience, made-to-measure service and even Haute Couture orders.
The most recent addition, Nevsky 152 Concept Store, is home to young designers as well as Fendi and Chanel monobrand boutiques, not to mention an art space and a high-tech shop. Here, well-known brands like Celine, Marc Jacobs and Azzedine Alaïa are accompanied by emerging and much-talked about names like Tata Naka, Tak.Ori, Walk of Shame and A.W.A.K.E.
Taiga Space positions itself as an experimental platform that unites young professionals under one roof. In effect, it is an ongoing creative collaboration that extends to the very upkeep of the building, conveniently located near the Hermitage. In 2011, dozens of companies – among those, studios of design, showrooms and stores – restored the building and brought the artistic space to life. It probably is easier to say what there isn’t than what there is, for the vast territory of Taiga Space contains a recording studio, a radio station (RTS.FM), the largest electric guitar showroom (Guitarbank), a bike shop and so much more. Books&More is known for its rare art magazines; architecture studio Architales – for their unconventional projects that go beyond architecture; 8-Store – for its careful selection of new names in fashion, which includes Asya Malbershtein, Birchess and Masha Yankovskaya. Vintage store “Запятая” is a rare jewel even in this collection of gemstones: the owners source all kinds of rarities from around the world and accept selected submissions from local creative artists. For a keen eye like theirs, there are plenty of curious things to discover.
Dvortsovaya nab. 20, space-taiga.org
OPIUM CONCEPT STORE
Owned by Machiavelli Luxury Group, whose projects include the online store boutique.ru and a few monobrand boutiques of international designers, Opium Concept Store is a representative case for a successful conceptual fashion business. It has long been home to avant-garde designers hailing from Japan, Europe, the US and the UK, and as such provides a rare selection of brands on the Russian market. Homo Consommatus, Eleven Paris and David Koma form just a fraction of brands represented in Opium Concept Store, while its vast collection of carefully selected perfumes adds to the overall impression of a curated space for daring and inquisitive individuals.
Nevsky pr. 44 ( +7 812 449-95-93, machiavelli.ru)
DAY & NIGHT
Like the highly successful Babochka empire, Day & Night is essentially a chain of multibrand stores catering to a whole variety of tastes, if not budgets. Established in 1997, it has gradually expanded to include Daynight, Daynight Shoes, Daynight Lite (diffusion lines and mid-range brands), Daynight Outlet and an online store; all of them offering an abundance of avant-garde creations and perfumes. There is a lot to discover even for those, who prefer less conceptual brands, as well-designed and somewhat futuristic stores present an enviable mix of Givenchy, Jason Wu, Sacai, The Row, Altuzzara and Camilla Skovgaard, to name but a few.
Malaya Posadskaya ulitsa 6 ( +7 812 234 2300, daynight.ru)
The concept of Antipodium was born in 2010, when Jenya Malygina, the designer of an exciting and daring brand Pirosmani, presented her new collection in the form of a conceptual fashion performance, aptly named “Antipodium – Mirror Mask”. Since then, the name has not only come to define Pirosmani’s ideology – that is, no fashion, no trends, no seasons – but also became a title to the brand’s official boutique, where the most recent collections of Pirosmani can be found. Perhaps, one of the most intriguing brands in St. Petersburg, Pirosmani is known for its avant-garde style, asymmetric cuts, fine draping and signature outer seams. Despite its experimental approach, the brand sets the tone for original, yet utterly timeless and comfortable clothing, and that alone gives enough credence to Antipodium as a thrilling monobrand store.
Vladimirsky pr. 19, inside Vladimirsky passage ( +7 812 951 2158, pirosmani.info)
ЛУУК DESIGN MARKET
Focusing on the look of the collections instead of their brand names is not a usual move among emerging and established shops, whose credentials strongly depend on the list of said titles arranged in well-defined groups on the shop floor. However, Луук Design Market does just that, following its clear and seemingly simple mantra: No brand, only look. Refusing to put labels, either on its customers or on its stock, Луук Design Market offers a visual mix of items that complement each other and represent individuality and own character, no matter what brand they belong to. Stumbling upon Barbour, Cyrille Gassilline, Sofia Zharova and I Am can be anticipated, but there is certainly a lot more to uncover. For those in the know, it is also a place to acquire new issues of Monocle magazine and peculiar Demeter perfumes from the well-known New York based perfumery, Demeter Fragrance Library.
nab. kanal Griboedova, 74 ( +7 812 939 6051, lyyk.ru)Evgenia Dorofeeva is a photographer, fashion writer and an avid traveller based in London. Her love of fashion comes from childhood spent in a grandmother’s atelier, while writing is a hobby that is bound to become a full-time occupation. Evgenia’s dream is to create a worthy home collection of evening dresses – story-tellers, performers and fairy godmothers in their own right. ]]>
The National Gallery of Art in Washington is days away from launching an exhibit that chronicles the Ballets Russes, a collaboration that, through its high caliber of expression and unexpected collaborations, shaped art at the beginning of the 20th century. By blending art, dance, and music, this revolutionary movement gave birth to productions like “The Rite of Spring” and “Firebird,” which are now household names.
Ballets Russes productions combined both Russian and Western forms of dance and toured from 1909-1929. Sergei Diaghilev, the founder and director of the Ballets Russes, brought together innovators in the contemporary art world, managing to bridge the gap between performance art and fine art. Ballet had not included modernity prior to the Ballets Russes. Diaghilev took a classical genre and made it contemporary. The exhibit is fittingly titled “When Art Danced with Music.”
The exhibit celebrates mixed media and a cultural history brought to life by the sounds of Igor Stravinsky, the performances of Vaslav Nijinsky, the costumes of Henri Matisse and Coco Chanel, the set design of Natalia Goncharova, and the curtains of Pablo Picasso. The 12,000-square-foot exhibit will house 135 pieces of art, some of which will be the largest objects the museum has ever installed. Running from May 12 to September 2, the exhibit incorporates set pieces from several original productions, as well as a mix of art inspired by the Ballets.
Washington’s National Gallery of Art is located on the National Mall. The museum underwent construction in order to expand its walls and ceilings to make way for the Ballets Russes exhibit. It truly is a must-see.
For more information visit the website of The National Gallery of Art: Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes, 1909–1929: When Art Danced with Music
Image: Léon Bakst (designer), costumes for brigands in Fokine’s ballet Daphnis and Chloé, 1912. Victoria & Albert Museum, LondonMollie Rifkin finds energy in fashion and art, and understood her calling at a young age. The fix she got from reading her mother’s copies of Vogue while growing up led her to fashion writing. Mollie is passionate about scouting trends before they hit the streets and putting them into words. She sees fashion as wearable art and reports on style and culture, all the while exploring how the two are interrelated. Mollie is based in New York City. ]]>
Dmitry Loginov, the mastermind behind Arsenicum, has created a dark and ominous Fall collection. This Muscovite’s Fall vision is for the fashion-forward man and the audacious woman. Much different than his Spring collection, his pieces this Fall cross gender lines, where similar looks are crafted for both male and female models. The theme is Cosmos, and the futuristic styling is out of this world. The one thing that sets the sexes apart: the suiting.
Dmitry creates sharp, well-fitting suiting. The blazers and slacks in this collection are sure to impress. His jackets are constructed of strong lines and the pants are tailored to perfection – not too wide and not too slim. A balance of boxy blazers and trim slacks oozes confidence on any dapper male. Dmitry goes bold with pants in purple, red, and cobalt, as well as leather, kilt-like skirts, and capes. Menswear is Dmitry’s specialty, and it is interesting how this transcends his unisex designs.
The women’s wear is short-lived and brief compared to the men’s: all of them long, floor-grazing gowns; the options are red or black. Lace-back details and capelet overcoats are nice touches that show off Dmitry’s fashion sense from his former stylist and editor years, all the while finding the utmost means of expressing himself in design.
Androgyny is key in the black mesh pieces that are quite industrial and almost sci-fi like. Think The Matrix, but also punk without the cyber: Arsenicum Fall 2013 would have made a perfect choice for this past Monday’s punk-themed Met Gala.Mollie Rifkin finds energy in fashion and art, and understood her calling at a young age. The fix she got from reading her mother’s copies of Vogue while growing up led her to fashion writing. Mollie is passionate about scouting trends before they hit the streets and putting them into words. She sees fashion as wearable art and reports on style and culture, all the while exploring how the two are interrelated. Mollie is based in New York City. ]]>
Photorealistic prints add a special tech-savvy touch to items currently in fashion. The Masha Reva x SNDCT line looks are botanically bodacious. Each of her layers of botanical bliss is screen printed onto a sweatshirt silhouette. She makes an ironic statement by creating computerized images of organic objects – a sort of ‘digital nature.’ This concept is in itself an oxymoron: a contradictory concept that actually makes sense. Masha Reva x SNDCT toys with the idea that we are seeking to get out of the hustle and bustle of our modern lives, which are overrun with technology, and back into our natural element.
Ksenia Schnaider manipulates an earth-toned pattern and goes graphic. She delivers a fun take on the camouflage trend by packaging the print in a bright aqua color palette. Ksenia Schnaider’s aesthetic is architectural, and her shapes are simple and classic. Either with black color blocks, or white, sheer insets, she puts this collection on the contemporary map.
Shop Anthom.com – and fast, these digitized designs are selling out!Mollie Rifkin finds energy in fashion and art, and understood her calling at a young age. The fix she got from reading her mother’s copies of Vogue while growing up led her to fashion writing. Mollie is passionate about scouting trends before they hit the streets and putting them into words. She sees fashion as wearable art and reports on style and culture, all the while exploring how the two are interrelated. Mollie is based in New York City. ]]>
Imperial Russia is the muse for many a Fall fashion collection this year. She tells a story of grandeur, in which wealth was expressed materially, and privy only to those close to the Tsar. In conjuring up the rich cultural narrative that is interwoven throughout the Eastern European heritage, European designers have utilized velvet and fur to bring to life garments they read about in Tolstoy’s novels.
A fusion of cold climate and distinguished culture bears as many layers to it as the outfitting of its people. Jackets, hats and gloves play an important role in adding glamour and nostalgia. Chandelier earrings are common adornments on the Imperial image. These ensembles also display some remarkably bohemian undertones, with notes both romantic and flowing, as seen at Ralph Lauren. The aesthetic of a classic equestrian icon has been revamped here.
Imperial Russia also translates in formalwear. Floor-length silhouettes bode well due to this subject’s old-time nature, and elegant, jewel tones serve to expose the royalty underlying the clothes. Zang Toi definitely nails it in the color of the season, emerald, with a royally draped back.
Toi, a Malaysian couturier, received praised for his designs at New York Fashion Week. His ideas for this Fall’s collection came to fruition during his travels in St. Petersburg. Toi’s works are hand-made in his New York atelier. The details on Toi’s pieces are given extra attention throughout their manual construction. He hones his craftsmanship in on an ornate, two-piece garment with fur trim, and a regal creation is born.
The visual elements of such a vast past inspire each designer differently. However, cultural references alluding to Russia are clearly seen this Fall across many collections; and Russia should be noted for her important influence on global fashion.Mollie Rifkin finds energy in fashion and art, and understood her calling at a young age. The fix she got from reading her mother’s copies of Vogue while growing up led her to fashion writing. Mollie is passionate about scouting trends before they hit the streets and putting them into words. She sees fashion as wearable art and reports on style and culture, all the while exploring how the two are interrelated. Mollie is based in New York City. ]]>