The start of the Ukrainian Fashion Week was marked by the highly-awaited show of Lilia Poustovit whose eponymous line has long been deemed an epitome of national fashion, long before the concept of modernised folk symbolism gained its wide-spread popularity. The already familiar minimalistic clean cuts, frequently over-sized shapes and unique digital prints, specifically designed by the Poustovit studio every season, succeed in evoking a harmonious feeling of interplay between historical heritage and modernity, which did not go unnoticed by the audience in attendance and the online reviewers alike.
The spring-summer 2013 collection, aptly named “Urban Mosaic”, explores the idea of the complexity of the urban life that is, in a way, a melting pot of everything new and old, restrained and opulent, simple and complex. The balance between romanticism and minimalism is articulately expressed in the clever merging of pristine fabrics and vivid prints, pastel blues and bright neon pink, floaty dresses and tailored summer suits. Practical, yet somewhat dreamy, the wardrobe of a Poustovit woman of this season has a certain flair of cultivated individuality and self-worth that serves to reinforce the overall impression of quality and timelessness of designs.
Poustovit signature print-focused style does not seem particularly dated or overused, despite the rather obvious fact that the ethnic elements are by now a heavily-used trope in fashion. Modern re-interpretation of national cultural heritage is what set Poustovit apart from the other developing brands in Ukraine in the past; and it is this skillful appropriation of traditional prints and embroidery that has gradually evolved into the brand’s remarkable and individual look. This spring-summer collection once again shows a thoughtful and inspired reworking of the traditional embroideries, specifically from Podolia, a historic region in modern Ukraine. Stars and squares are some of numerous traditional elements that adorn the otherwise very minimalistic design pieces, and just like the symbolism behind them, they add an extra layer of meaning to all the looks in the collection. Here, the historical discourse effortlessly transforms into the showcase of modern and innovative designs, and vice versa. Perhaps, this quality along is what makes Poustovit collections cause gasps of wonder and amazement season after season, but this collection in particular proved itself to be a statement worthy of the brand’s existing reputation.